Friday, February 19, 2010

baby boy onesie with binding tutorial

The lovely Dana from MADE contacted me recently to see if I would help out with ‘Celebrate the boy’ month by coming up with a boy-ish sewing tutorial, and of course I said yes! Because really, there isn’t much out there in the crafty world for our wee men folk is there? So if anything I hope this tutorial and all the other amazing ones over at MADE and Made by Rae inspire you to sew and lovingly create things for your boy, nephew, grandson or friend.

A few people have asked recently how to make T-shirts and other stretch items for their children, and especially how to get the binding looking so nice. This tutorial will show you how to sew confidently with stretch fabric and hopefully you can then branch out and sew many comfy and super cute clothes for your little man. The good news is you don’t need an overlocker (serger), just a few essential tips on how to maximise the potential of your regular home sewing machine!

This summer Jude has lived in two sleeveless onesie’s that I made for him. Such a practical item of clothing for our hot Australian summer, yet so hard to buy one that fits well and luckily, so easy to sew one (or two or three) yourself! So here it is:

This pattern has been designed to fit my son who is about 7 months old, and quite a solid build). It is a slim fit on him, but looks great. So I would say it’s about a 6-month size (with growing room) to be safe. You will have to adjust to fit if you need it in a different size, based on outfits that fit your baby at home. Click here to download the free 6 month sized pattern.

Gather your supplies:

70cm good quality cotton knit with a very small percent of lycra/spandex*
4 small wooden buttons
washable marker/pins
3 sets of snaps
ball point needles for your machine- this is important!

*Wash and preshrink fabric. I always dry fabric in dryer before cutting to make sure it has fully shrunk (often by about 10%) so the finished garment will retain is shape when washed in future.

Stretch stitches to use:

For sewing your seams together, the stitch in the photo below is the one I would use. It looks like a straight stitch, but has a small amount of zig zag so the fabric will stretch when worn and pulled over little heads repeatedly.

The walking foot:

If you don’t have one, don’t panic! You will still be able to make the garment. However, if you do have a walking foot it is fantastic for sewing great seams with stretch. The picture shows two fabric samples. On the right a regular foot was used and you can see the seam is bubbled or rippled looking. The sample on the left was using the walking foot and it really helps seams to sit flat (photo doesn’t do it justice). However, if you only have a regular foot, a good steam iron should sort most the wrinkles out.

Lets get started!

1. Open the PDF and print off pattern pieces making sure the pattern is to scale. Check by measuring the square, it should be 5cm x 5cm. Join the two pattern pieces together at the line where it says ‘Join here’, and trace off your front piece and back piece onto separate pieces of paper

2. Cut out your front and back pieces taking care to match up stripes (see picture), and cut on the fold.

3. Transfer markings from pattern onto fabric with a washable marker, all X’s along bottom edge and shoulder markings.

4. Cut binding pieces as measured on PDF pattern. You may want to cut them a little longer if you are concerned about your fabric not being stretchy enough.

If you are cutting the binding from garment fabric and it is striped, decide which colour in the stripe you want as binding before cutting. For example, I chose white for the binding so made sure white was showing 1-2cm from the edge of binding.

5. Pin the front neck binding to onesie front, right sides together.
Stitch about 1cm from edge (using the stitch shown at beginning of tutorial) stretching to fit as you go.
Repeat step for onesie back, joining back neck binding to onesie back.

6. Press binding flat with a light steam iron on both front and back pieces.

7. Turn binding under to wrong side of garment. I don’t bother pinning, but if you think it will help keep your binding an even width, go for it!

8. Topstitch binding in place with a medium zig zag stitch (good old regular zig zag, not the type we are sewing seams with) on right side of garment. Again, stretch slightly as you sew.

The trick here is to sew as slowly as you need to keep the topstitching straight, while folding the binding under so it looks uniformed the whole way along the edge. With practice, you will get much quicker at this!

9. Trim excess binding off back of garment, not to close to stitching though!

10. Give pieces a light steam press.

11. Join front and back pieces together at shoulder seam, matching up markings. The back piece should overlap the front.

12. Stitch them together about 1/2cm from edge to hold in place.

13. Now its time to stitch the side seams together, taking care to match stripes as you sew as well as stretch fabric slightly.

14. Take one sleeve binding and stitch ends together to form a circle.
Repeat with other sleeve binding.
Repeat with bottom edge binding.

15. Mark sleeve binding circles into ¼’s with marker, and armhole into ¼’s as well.
Mark bottom edge binding circle into 1/8’s with marker.

16. Slide the armhole onto sewing machine bed (or is that called the arm too?), and the binding over that (right sides together). See photo below.

17. Stitch together 1cm from edge, taking care to match markings as you sew.
Repeat for other armhole.
18. Follow steps 6-10 for finishing off armhole binding in the same way you finished neck bindings.

19. Stitch the bottom edge binding to bottom edge of garment matching up markings on binding with X’s along garment edge, right sides together.
Follow steps 6-10 for finishing off bottom edge binding in the same way you finished neck bindings.

20. Insert snaps in bottom edge about 3cm apart. I have a snap press, but you can use the snaps you hammer in or even buy snap tape, which you sew on.

21. Sew on your 4 wooden buttons taking care to sew them to the binding only, not the fabric underneath.

Well done, you are now finished!!
One last step.

22. Take one beautiful chubby baby boy, dress him in his comfortable new onesie and admire those gorgeous rolls and milky skin!

and remember, boy will be boys.

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial!


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dana said...

Oh my gosh, I feel like I just took an advanced sewing class. Naomi, you are brilliant! I am so excited to try this. Thank you for sharing such wonderful tips with us and for all the great photos, inserts, added info, etc.
Really great. And worthy of any professional clothing line!
- dana

Tracy said...

Well Done Naomi! that is one brilliant tutorial and pattern. I'm sure if I use girl fabrics Heather will be wearing a few of these!

Kristine said...

That's a gorgeous onesie Naomi. And great tutorial - lots of instructions to cover. Love the little man on the beach with his mouthful of sand. Our baby is at that stage at the moment. I guess if you have no teeth you don't get that awful gritty texture. Sand is probably not that bad for the toothless!

Erica said...

Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial. I tend to stay away from knits but after reading this I'm ready to try. I'm sure I'll re-read it about a millon times before I actually try it. Thanks again for a great resource.

Lise said...

I'm here from Made. What a wonderful tutorial you've put together! I've been so frustrated sewing with knits. You've inspired me to try again. I'm adding your blog to my reader; looks like a great one!

original.stuff said...

came over from made - wonderful tute - STINKIN' cute kid!!!! i will be back!

Unknown said...

Wow, this is great. I have been wanting to do a knit binding, but didn't know how. Your tips are great... now if I could just get up the nerve to try it! That onesie is beautiful!

Cheri said...

wow, thank you so much!Saw your tute on Made and came to check it out. I am so glad I did, your blog is wonderful! I am a new sewer and have been intimidated by knits. Your tutorial was really educational and I cant wait to try it.

Antoinette said...

Beautiful tutorial, and thanks for sharing all your knit knowledge and the pattern! I also loved the gorgeous rolls on my son when he was that age! :)

No Big Dill said...

I love your attention to detail and completely agree about the use of quality materials. Makes the difference.

Lucinda said...

Wow - you make it look so easy, and I know it's not!! Thanks for sharing all your tips and expertise with sewing with knits. Now, I'm wondering where you got that adorable striped knit fabric . . . do you have any great sources for where to buy cute knits?

the mama monster said...

i'm coming over from made too. this tutorial is so great and detailed. thank you! off to explore your grat blog...

Sarah said...

Thanks for sharing this...looks great! I can't wait to try it.

Kelli Ward said...

this is just so wonderful. i can't get over it. can't wait to try it and to learn from your experience.

Marie said...


Kristin said...

wonderful I cant wait to make one!

Kate Williams said...

I love this! I have a 2 month old and this would be perfect for him for summer! I cannot wait to make this for him. Where do you find good quality cotton knit fabric? Thanks for any advice you could give me!


Suzanne said...

Thanks for that! I'm just getting up the courage to get into the world of knits and this is great info! I'm wondering too - where do you find good knits?

Erin said...

This is totally making my day. I'm having a boy in a couple of months and was just thinking recently about wanting to make onesies for him, but I couldn't find a tutorial anywhere. Low and behold, it's not only free but it's better than any I would buy! Thank you. :)

Aimee said...

oh my goodness, I feel so inspired. that onesie is the cutest onesie ever!! i have been scared of knits but you have empowered me! can't wait to print this out and gather my supplies...

Sandra said...

Such a great tutorial, thank you very much for putting it together! I've just started sewing knits and must say, I'm hooked, so I cannot wait to put these tips into practice. And your little one is just the cutest thing ever :)!

Forever You said...

Naomi!! thank yo soooooooo much for this ! Great info cutest baby!! You are sooo lucky!

Rae said...

F A N T A S T I C !!!
Naomi, this is terrific. What a great tutorial/pattern...thanks so much for sharing! I know this must have been TONS of work!

Anna said...

wow, this is sooo great! I can't wait to read all of it and try it out. thanks so much!

Kelly Casanova said...

That's so cute, onesies have to be the most practical baby outfit ever! Your beach pictures are gorgeous.

cherri said...

Gorgeous work there Naomi!

homemade by jill said...

wow - I'm blown away! Thanks for the great tutorial. I can't wait to try this.

Erin said...

I would love to try this. Can you tell me where you suggest to buy knit, comfy fabrics for this project? Thanks!

Unknown said...

Yes, yes, I enjoyed the tutorial!! You have me hooked! I have 4 girls, but I may have to try it for a friend!

Kate said...

That is a brilliant tutorial!!! Stretchy binding scares me - might try this one day!

Wendy said...

What a great tutorial! Thanks for all the sewing tips. And you have a beautiful baby boy!

Kylie said...

Congratulations Naomi - what a great tutorial:)

cally said...

This is fantastic. I actually feel like I could do this.

Knit scares me. I'm so glad I found you.

Anonymous said...

Is it just me? The pdf doesn't seem to want to open and I REALLY want to make this... looks fantastic!

naomi said...

hmmm...PDF wont open on my computer either. Thanks for letting me know. My hubby will be able to fix it in a few hours if it hasn't sorted itself out by then. Sorry for the delay!

naomi said...

think I fixed it!
Let me know if there are any more issues. And yes, I did spell 'onesie' wrong on the pattern, oops!

Anonymous said...

YAY! I opened it!
Awesome! Thanks so much :D


Anonymous said...

P.S- You have a fanatastic blog! I have read my way back through all your archives and I love it :D SO glad I found you!


Heather said...

Thank you so much for posting this, so many awesome tips! I can't wait to play with this pattern, so cute!

Kate said...

Oh my goodness woman, you're like a celebrity in the blogging world!! You're amazing!
Gorgeous outfit for a gorgeous boy. Hopefully one day I'll be clever enough to make it, if not guess who'll be calling you?! ;)
Enjoy your day, catch you soon xoxo

Mary said...

Thanks! This is great! Very clear Tutorial. said...

Wow, this is fantastic! I'm promoting the Boy series and I'll be linking to this if you don't mind.

piggie1230 said...

So, what does one do if one does not have a funny little zigzig stitch. I've got a Janome Gem Gold, and it doesn't have much beyond a couple basic zig zags and straight stitches

naomi said...

hi piggie1230,
If you don't have that stitch, then just set your zig zag to short and narrow. Basically, thats all that stitch is. Experiment on a scrap first to get it right, make sure it stretches a little. Happy sewing!

Skebba said...

How cool is this! It's so hard to find instructions for kids' clothes which seem manageable. I even have a snap press, which I can put to good use now.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share this with us.

Ben Adams said...

Stuff Naomi! That must have taken you ages! Really nice job :)

Izabela said...

totally awesome! thanks for the tut...

Anne said...

Just had to tell you that I've been a knit-fabric binding FOOL the last few days, thanks to this tutorial. It's finally not scary to finish off the edges of t-shirts and such. THANK YOU!!!

Lila Jo said...

Thanks for the great tutorial and all the tips for sewing with knits! I am anxiously awaiting my order from the fabric fairy! I have also enjoyed all of your older posts... totally inspired by the undies and have them on my to-do list as well. Thanks!

Arlyna's Blog said...

THANK YOU SO MUCH! This tutorial has put my mind at ease with trying my hand at sewing with knitted fabrics.

Just wondered if you've experienced fabric getting 'eaten' into the machine. Is my fabric too thin or too stretchy?

Paul and Rebecca Jones said...

Any suggestions for making your pattern for a larger sized kid? Would you just go through and add like and inch all around the pattern? Thank you by the way for such a fabulous tutorial! There are not enough boy tutorials out there.

naomi said...

Arlyna, you may need to make sure you have a new needle in the machine (a ballpoint needle) and experimenting with the pressure dial on your machine could help. If its happening at the point where you begin sewing (I get this sometimes), then stretch the fabric out taut while you start off. The walking foot would make a big difference too.

Housewife, it would depend on the size you were wanting to make. Best advice I can give is find an existing onesie that fits really well and scale the pattern to fit. For a bigger child, you usually add more length than width (because babies waists grown slower than their length). Once you are happy with your front and back pieces, measure the openings where you need to add binding and make the binding pieces roughly 70% of openings length.

I hope this helps, sorry if its a bit muddled...severely sleep deprived here at the moment!!

Anonymous said...

what a beautiful blog you have and what a wonderful tutorial. I actually read the whole thing and I don't even own a sewing machine. But I might be motivated to get one! The little onesie caught my eye because your little's ones cute little arms and legs look like my little boy's chubby arms and legs! Love the onesie - its adorable!

milesmomma said...

what a perfect tutorial. I've made three little shirts using your tutorial and a scaled up pattern. My little guy is only 7.5 months but already wearing 18 month clothing! It is hard to find sleeveless things for a boy, so your tutorial was perfect for me. I'll post pictures shortly at my flikr site:

Maria said...

Really nice! Now if only we could all just wear onsies, life would be so much simpler!!!

Thanks for the tutorial.


Kylie said...

Thanks so much for this pattern - here is the onesie I made -

Hannah said...

Thanks so much for this tutorial. I turned a secondhand t-shirt and some scraps into a beautifully colourful onesie for my soon-to-be-born baby. I know understand how to sew jersey - well, a bit more anyway ;-)

Here's a picture of
the onesie I made

Unknown said...

so incredibly helpful! Thanks so very much for putting this out there. Can't wait to convert some of my hubby's old Ts!

Kris @ said...

i have had this bookmarked since it was posted. i am diving into knits this weekend. thank you for making this so easy to understand!!

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Anonymous said...

WOW! This is amazing! You do an awesome job with EVERYTHING! Now if I can follow your footsteps! THANKS!!!!!!!!!!

Anonymous said...

Wow, this answered so many questions I've had lately about sewing with knits and binding them! I feel confident enough to try now! Great tutorial and pictures! Thank you!

Make handmade said...

Great tutorial. Love it, thanks for sharing

Margot said...

I love this tutorial! And I wanted to let you know that I posted about it on my blog, I am planning on trying it. I did borrow one of your photos, but referenced you. Take a look, and if you would like me to remove it I can.

Unknown said...

Love the pattern and final piece. Looks so sweet. Will make one tomorrow! Thank you VERY much for your work and sharing.

elenor said...

thanks for sharing your idea and that fine tutorial! your onesie looks so cute - and the baby too, of course! but today it will be much taller! I only have to wait for my grandchildren to be born - they wil surey get one!
i found this via pinterest!

best wishes and greetings from Austria!

Jen said...

Great tutorial! You've been featured on the Quality Sewing Tutorials blog.

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Grab a brag button!

Elena Toledo said...

This tutorial is awesome!! I would love to try and make this onesies for my grandson...I do sew but I never made one of these before!!
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love your blog!!♥

Anonymous said...

Came over from LilBlueBoo. Great tutorial and a great professional look! Your little guy looks adorable in it! Thanks for sharing! (Canada) :)

Lens said...

Wonderful tutorial!!! I was looking for some sewimg patterns for my new baby and yours is perfect. Thanks for sharing :D

Charity said...

What did I do wrong if it curls an doesn't want to lay flat?The binding that is. After sewing it on it curls.

Anonymous said...

Has the PDF been removed? I'm not finding it. Would love to have this pattern. Thanks!

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Crazy Onesie said...

These dresses are too nice i am really so inspired from your products but i saw your dresses have buttons and i am looking for some without buttons because some babies takes there mouths to button and also they trying to eat it so would you please share some onesies without button?
I will back to you soon.



Anonymous said...

where is the pdf??

Unknown said...

Great selection of clothing for kids. I love the boys suits

kimik said...

Hi! Thank you for blog it is very helpfull, I'am just starting to sewing for my baby. I could'n download the second pdf archieve with the cut binding pieces. The link doesn't work :(

Unknown said...

You will never see this children clothes ever,very cool than you can imagine

Ben Wood said...

Great collection you have shared, looks amazing and stylish. I love the whole collection of baby clothes.

woodbean said...

LOVE this post! I'm making this tomorrow for a good ol summer romper for my baby. Where to find quality fabric?!!, hartsfabric,, cedarhousefabrics, fabricworm, and I've also found great deals on organic cotton interlock knit on ebay. Girlcharlee has a huge selection of knits also. They're not organic or supreme quality but still better than the fabric store and have held up great with washing AND drying. I like to get the medium weight from girlcharlee. It's easier to sew with and looks much nicer. Hope this helps those that are looking for knits. I also use stretch needles instead of universal ballpoint on my machine and wooly nylon thread on the loopers for my serger.

Unknown said...

OMG awsome!!!! Is there a patter to this?
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Good dog training tips said...

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Sandra said...

amazing idea i will try it soon

Rose R said...

Amazing post! What a lovely vest! I am looking to knit one for my one and a half year old boy and would like to make it more of an undershirt as it's very damp and cold here in NZ in the winter.

Unknown said...

What a wonderful post! I was looking to make a special onesie set for my sister-in-law's coming baby - do you know how I could adjust the pattern to fit a newborn-3month old? I saw someone said that you add length for making it bigger but should I just take off length to make it smaller? I don't know any baby clothes to compare to, any tips would be much appreciated!

Charlotte said...

Hi where is the PDF
I can't see it

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Lovely baby clothes collection. I also really love seeing babies dressed well :D

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Anonymous said...

Very beautiful collection. I like some also for newborn baby from baby layette

marianna mpagiampous said...

thanks a lot! I've just made one for my little girl to come using this great tutorial!

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